Wandering and Exploring on Salt Spring Island

Articles by Michael Fagin Meteorologist, Travel Writer and Wine Enthusiast

Salt Spring Island has an atmosphere of peace and tranquility. From the beautiful and scenic parks to the friendliness of the folks, the island was a respite from the hustle and bustle of our lives. The history of the Island could well be contributing to the ambiance of the area. In 1858 the British Columbia Governor James Douglas took the unprecedented step of inviting Afro-Americans from the United States to move to the island. At that time in the States, Blacks were denied basic rights of citizenship, such as voting and owning land. Upon welcoming Black settlers to Salt Spring Island, Governor Douglas distributed land to them and gave them full citizenship allowing them to vote and serve in the local militia. Many of the Blacks settled in the Ganges-Vesuvius area. Douglas, who also served as Lieutenant Governor of Vancouver Island, has been called the Father of British Columbia. His own heritage of mixed European and African ancestry probably contributed to his openness. He is known as a staunch protector of the settlers. One of the legends surrounding him is a semi-miraculous and historically beneficent story of attempted assassination – foiled by a misfiring of the gun.

Early settlers called the island “Salt Spring” named for the springs on the island. In 1910 the Geographic Board of Canada changed the spelling to Saltspring, but local usage has always retained the two word version. The island is known for its beautiful parks and a large community of artists. Located about 30 minutes away from Salt Spring Vineyards and the Garry Oaks Winery is Ruckle Provincial Park, one of the largest provincial parks in the Gulf Islands.

View of Swanson Channel from Ruckle Provincial Park

Homesteaded in 1872 by Henry Ruckle, the land was mainly used for sheep farming. In 1974 Henry's grandson Gordon Ruckle sold the land to the province as a park. The agreement included tenancy for life, allowing members of the family to continue to live and farm on the land, making it the oldest continually operating farm in British Columbia.

Great views that one can sit and relax and have a snack at Ruckle Provincial Park

Also of historical interest is Beaver Point near the southeast tip of the park. The point was named after the Hudson Bay Company steamer, The Beaver, which ran aground there in 1888. In 1889 Henry Ruckle built a wharf on the point to facilitate boat traffic to Vancouver Island. The wharf was home to a general store and post office until the 1950s when the ferry service was moved to Fulford Harbour. During the 1920s the area was used to smuggle liquor into the US Border during the prohibition in the states. Today the park provides opportunities for both day use and camping. There are 8 vehicle accessible campsites, 78 walk-in campsites, and 3 group campsites. Many of the campsites offer stunning views of the Swanson Channel. The park covers 1200 acres with 7.24 kilometers (4.5 miles) of coastline, 15 kilometers (9 miles) of hiking trails and lots of picnic tables. Popular activities include scuba diving, hiking, picnicking and simply soaking up nature. On your way to the park – be sure to stop for some freshly made bread, local cheeses and bakery items found at many locations on the Island. For a comprehensive listing go to the link listed under Salt Spring Studio Tour .

Tree lined trail with a view of Burgoyne Bay at Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park

The smaller but still magnificent is Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park. The park is named for Commander Hugh Talbot Burgoyne, a highly decorated officer on the ship the HMS Ganges. Burgoyne earned the Victoria Cross (Canada's highest military award) for his efforts to save crew and cargo from a burning American merchant ship. Commander Burgoyne was killed in 1870 when his ship capsized in a gale. The park fronts on the protective waters of Burgoyne Bay which contain the last undeveloped salmon-bearing estuaries on Salts Spring Island. With nearby protected lands on Mount Maxwell, Mount Sullivan and Mount Tuam, Burgoyne Bay is part of the largest undeveloped area in the Gulf Islands. Outdoor recreation in the park includes boating, horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking. A public dock operated by the Salt Spring Harbour Authority provides limited opportunities for boat mooring and kayak launching. The hiking trails in the park provide beautiful views of the bay under the shelter of Garry Oak and Douglass Fir Trees.

For a spectacular view of the area be sure to visit Baynes Peak in Mount Maxwell Provincial Park . Baynes Peak is the second highest point on the Island at 595 meters (1950 feet). Highest is Bruce Peak at 709 meters (2326 feet). Baynes Peak is accessible by road so you have lots of options: drive (part way or all the way), hike or mountain bike. However you get there, the peak offers superb views of the surrounding Gulf Islands, Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia.

For a comprehensive list of the beauty, culture and art available on the island the Salt Spring Art Council provides a handy guide – The Salt Spring Studio Tour map and brochure.. Using the map and listing of over 33 artisans we found our way to some wonderful experiences of culinary arts and a wide variety of art studios. Our favorite stop was Salt Spring Island Bread, where we found “The Bread Lady” Heather Campbell baking organic bread in her outdoor wood fired brick oven. The bakery is perched on top of a sunny ridge near Ruckle Provincial Park. Sitting at the picnic table, chatting with Heather, enjoying the view and eating the best focaccia bread we have ever tasted is a memory that will last a long time.

Sadly, our time on Salt Spring did not allow us to see everything that the Island offers. For your trip planning, and our next visit, here is a list of some other worthwhile stops:

Reginald Hill http://www.out-there.com/gis120.htm

Hope Hill Trails http://www.gulfislandseh.com/saltspring/freestuff.html

Bruce Peak http://www.gulfislandseh.com/saltspring/freestuff.html

Mill Farm Regional park Reserve http://www.crd.bc.ca/parks/reserves/millfarm.htm

Mount Erskine (a real calf burner with a 366 meter(1100 feet) gain in 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles)

List of Salt Spring Island Wineries

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* photo by Elizabeth Fagin

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